Sebastian Frank's innovative concept of "emancipated vegetable cuisine" showcases the power and aroma of vegetables and fruits, seamlessly integrating them with meat-based flavors and seasonings—without any physical pieces of meat—to achieve a harmonious blend of taste, texture, and consistency. This approach has been a resounding success: with its numerous accolades, Horváth is currently ranked among the 12 best and most exciting dining destinations in Germany. Originally from Lower Austria, near the Burgenland border, Sebastian Frank began his culinary journey with formal training and formative experiences, including a notable tenure at Vienna’s renowned Steirereck under the mentorship of Heinz Reitbauer Jr. In 2010, he relocated to Berlin, where he developed his signature style at Horváth. Just one year later, he earned his first Michelin star. In 2014, Sebastian and his wife, Jeannine, assumed ownership of the restaurant, which has consistently held two Michelin stars since 2015.
ConsiderBeyond: You achieved your first Michelin star just one year after arriving at Horváth and now hold two stars. Reflecting on this journey, what qualities or pivotal decisions do you believe defined your rise to this level of excellence?
Sebastian: When reflecting on my journey, I believe the most important decisions in my career were those where I chose to follow my personal culinary inspirations and stopped focusing on what my colleagues were doing or what the prevailing culinary trends were. In 2014, I made the decision to stop working with luxury products and instead focused solely on ingredients that resonated with my culinary upbringing in rural Austria. Similarly, in 2022, we eliminated physical pieces of meat and fish from our menu. This wasn’t because we wanted to be vegan or vegetarian, but rather because these products no longer inspired me.
At Horváth, we still use elements like pork fat, lard, or beef broth, but denaturing animal proteins as physical components no longer aligned with the creative vision I wanted to express on the plate. Ultimately, my journey has been defined by a strict adherence to my underlying philosophy: creativity through censorship.
ConsiderBeyond: Many of your dishes feature unconventional pairings. How do you approach crafting unique combinations, and what fuels your drive to continuously experiment?
Sebastian: My approach to cooking is not product-based. I don’t start by deciding, I want to create a dish with beetroot—how can I make it the star of the plate or showcase it in five different textures? That doesn’t interest me. Instead, my process begins with clear and vivid memories or ideas rooted in my predominantly Austrian life experiences, which I strive to replicate in an elegant and elevated way.
Right now, vegetables are the best medium for expressing these ideas. However, because my focus is always on the concept rather than the ingredient—and given that Austrian cuisine is heavily meat-focused—I sometimes end up pairing unconventional ingredients. For example, in 2022, we created a dessert that combined strawberries, lard, and poppy seeds. It’s this focus on storytelling and memory, rather than trends or convention, that fuels my drive to experiment.
ConsiderBeyond: Berlin is a city known for its diversity and creative energy. How has the city shaped your culinary philosophy and your approach to running a fine dining establishment like Horváth?
Sebastian: While my Austrian heritage remains the primary inspiration for my culinary philosophy, Berlin has undeniably influenced me, both personally and professionally. The city has pushed me to adapt and evolve in ways I might not have elsewhere. Berlin is also an ideal setting for a vegetable-focused restaurant, as its residents are generally more open-minded and progressive when it comes to food.
Additionally, the unique style of service we offer—personal and casual, yet rooted in the standards of a two-Michelin-star restaurant—is something I don’t think would be as well-received in most other cities. Berlin’s creative energy allows for a different kind of connection with our guests, making our approach feel both natural and authentic.
ConsiderBeyond: For many chefs, there’s a singular moment or dish that cements their passion for cooking. Was there an experience from your own life that solidified your decision to pursue a career in this field?
Sebastian: For me, it wasn’t a singular moment or dish, but rather a combination of circumstances that guided me toward this path. I didn’t particularly enjoy school and left at the age of 14 to begin an apprenticeship as a chef. From that point on, cooking became my entire world—it’s what I know and where I feel most at home.
At the same time, my early experiences working in traditional Austrian pubs were pivotal. They taught me valuable lessons about hard work and the foundations of Austrian cuisine, but they also ignited a desire to go beyond the ordinary. I knew I didn’t want to spend my life preparing hundreds of schnitzels a day. Instead, I envisioned creating something far more refined and personal—something that could truly reflect my ideas and aspirations.
ConsiderBeyond: Your concept of "emancipated vegetable cuisine" challenges traditional notions of fine dining. Can you walk us through the origins of this concept and what it represents for you as a chef?
Sebastian: As I mentioned earlier, we officially introduced this concept in 2022, although I had already fallen out of love with serving meat and fish well before that. For a long time, however, I felt pressured to cater to guests' expectations—to serve them what they craved and were accustomed to. Step by step, I transitioned toward a tasting menu entirely free of meat and fish. For me, this shift was a significant personal milestone and a way to challenge the traditional norms of fine dining. Who decided these rules we’re all supposed to follow? That a menu must include a set number of courses with meat or fish? That petit fours and amuse-bouches are non-negotiable? Or that having a signature caviar tin as an add-on is the hallmark of a fine dining experience?
"Emancipated vegetable cuisine" is about breaking free from these conventions and focusing instead on creativity, innovation, and crafting something truly meaningful. I also began to notice that many fine dining plates around the world looked remarkably similar. Subconsciously, I think I grew bored of that sameness. It pushed me to step back and develop my own clear and authentic philosophy—something that felt true to me and my vision.
ConsiderBeyond: Horváth offers an immersive experience, from the historic interior design to the open kitchen. How do these elements of the physical space contribute to the overall experience for your guests?
Sebastian: Our walls hold a remarkable history. In the 1980s, this building was home to Exil, one of the most iconic establishments in West Berlin. It was a haven for artists, musicians, and intellectuals—a space where creativity and expression thrived, and where people came together to escape the weight of their sorrows. It’s even said that David Bowie frequented Exil, considering it his favorite bar during his Berlin years.
Today, we honor that storied past while contributing to its legacy in our own way at Horváth. The mural in our dining room, created by Jim Avignon, serves as a poignant tribute to the building’s layered history, seamlessly blending its old and new narratives. It’s an inspiring piece, and I feel its energy resonate through the room every time I pass through during a lively evening service. That energy, I believe, extends to our guests as well, enriching their experience and making it truly one-of-a-kind.
ConsiderBeyond: Sustainability is increasingly central to fine dining. How does Horváth integrate sustainable practices into its daily operations and menu creation?
Sebastian: Given that we don’t use luxury products and focus exclusively on ingredients I grew up eating or cooking with, we are already inherently quite sustainable. Aside from our oils, which we source from Austria, all of our ingredients come from Germany. Additionally, being 98% vegetarian naturally contributes to our sustainability efforts.
At the core of our philosophy is a commitment to seasonality, maximizing the use of every part of a vegetable, and elevating simple ingredients to their fullest potential. For example, many of the leftover elements from our dishes are repurposed and incorporated into our juice pairings, ensuring that nothing goes to waste.
ConsiderBeyond: As Horváth continues to receive global acclaim, how do you navigate the challenge of appealing to an international audience while staying deeply connected to your roots and local philosophy?
Sebastian: While our concept is deeply regional and rooted in tradition, it’s also very much in tune with the Zeitgeist and highly innovative. I don’t know of another fine-dining restaurant that doesn’t serve pieces of meat or fish yet isn’t fully vegetarian. This unique approach often surprises our guests—especially when they’re presented with our petit four, a toffee made from pork blood, after enjoying a vegetable-based tasting menu.
I believe the importance of working with and celebrating vegetables will only continue to grow. As long as we can seamlessly combine my culinary upbringing with an evolving global Zeitgeist, I’m confident we’ll continue to resonate with international audiences while staying true to our roots.
ConsiderBeyond: As fine dining evolves rapidly, embracing movements like plant-based dining and sustainability, what are your hopes for its future, and how do you see chefs shaping this changing culinary landscape?
Sebastian: I hope chefs increasingly recognize that the cornerstone of creativity lies in their personal experiences and deeply held values. It’s essential to break free from the established norms and conventions of the industry, as true innovation often comes from authenticity and introspection. Fine dining, in particular, offers a unique platform where chefs have the privilege to curate an experience that reflects their vision, and guests consciously choose to partake in that journey.
Once diners step into a restaurant, I believe chefs should feel liberated to present the cuisine they are most inspired by, rather than adhering to expectations shaped by other establishments. This creates an opportunity to push boundaries and redefine what fine dining can be.
In essence, my hope is that fine dining continues to evolve into a more personal and individualized art form—one where chefs are unafraid to challenge conventions, celebrate their unique perspectives, and shape a culinary landscape that values originality above uniformity.
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Horváth
